Mark Twain at Klapproths’ Saloon

While living summers in Elmira, New York, Mark Twain (aka Samuel Clemens), already a world famous author, frequently found occasion to visit a local saloon run by an immigrant German named August Klapproth, and his son, Charles.  Years later the National Distillers Product Co.,, the source of “Old Crow” bourbon, as part of a series of “history re-imagined” magazine ads featured Twain at Klapproth’s.  Factual accuracy, however, left at the saloon back door.

In his 1872 autobiographical book, “Roughing It,” Mark Twain had made plain his positive view of saloonkeepers, writing:  “The cheapest and easiest way to become an influential man and be looked up to by the community at large was to stand behind a bar, wear a cluster-diamond pin and sell whiskey.  I am not sure but that the saloon-keeper held a shade higher rank than any other member of society.  His opinion had weight.  It was his privilege to say how elections would go.  No great movement could succeed without the countenance and direction of the saloon-keepers.  It was a high favor when the chief saloon-keeper consented to serve in the legislature or the board of alderman.”

The Klapproths failed miserably when measured against Twain’s description.  They did not flash diamonds or pontificate about current politics or serve in political office.   From the little to be gleaned from the historical record, they were stolid German publicans content with running a decent tavern.  August Klapproth had been born in Darmstadt, Germany, and immigrated to America as a youth.  His son Charles, born in America, never married and lived much of his life with his widowed mother and an unmarried sister.  Fame came when Twain chose their saloon as his favorite Elmira watering hole.

From his summer home at Quarry Farm, shown above, Twain of an evening would stroll into downtown Lake Street, one of Elmira’s main commercial avenues and stop in at Klapproths.  A legend, perpetuated by the “Old Crow” “ad-meisters,” was that Twain kept 25 kegs of his favorite whiskey in storage at the tavern for his personal use and for treating friends.  An early advertisement, below, depicted Twain at Klaproth’s (misspelled) inquiring of the bartender: “Lou, which barrel are we using now?”

Another Old Crow ad featured the author at the saloon regaling a group of amused companions.  It is entitled:  “Mark Twain holds forth at Klaproth’s Tavern.”  Note that Old Crow’s adverting geniuses still do not have the family’s name spelled right.  This panorama occasioned a parody by “Mad Magazine.” The spoof depicts Carrie Nation, famous for attacking saloons with a hatchet, joining Twain’s party.   The “Mad” text reads:  “Yes, in the past, a few women like Carrie Nation disapproved of Old Crow.  But today more and more women are singing its praise.  Of course, they still may hack up the place, but only because they get loaded on this famous Kentucky bourbon.” 

It was not until the early 1980s that Old Crow’s representations of Twain finally approached reality.  The ad shown below not only spells “Klapproth” correctly but also recreates the tavern interior as it actually looked, including the wood paneling, the fireplace and the metal bas relief sculpture above it.  This ad has Twain telling his rapt audience:  “Thunder is good, thunder is impressive; but it is lightening that does the work.”   The ad continues:  When Mark Twain held forth at Klapproth’s cafe, cigar in one hand, a glass of Old Crow in the other, one expected this kind of wit-filled conversation.

Was Mark Twain really a fan of Old Crow?  The  author was not merely a man of words about whiskey,  but of deeds as well.  While not given to over-indulging,  his fondness for bourbon was well known.  During his brief career as a journalist in Washington about 1868,  Twain agreed to share expenses with a roommate with a similar taste for whiskey.   Their total joint income per week was $24.   In his autobiography he recounts:  “Twenty four dollars a week would really have been riches to us if hadn’t had to support that jug;  because of the jug we were always sailing pretty close to the wind....”

When a friend sent him a case of whiskey, Twain’s thank-you note ran this way:   “The whiskey arrived in due course….Last week one bottle of it was extracted from the wood and inserted in me, on the installment plan, with this result: that I believe it to be the best, smoothest whiskey now on the planet.”  Twain unfortunately failed to mention the brand name. 

Later, while in England on a lecture tour, Twain remarked to companions that despite enjoying their company he badly missed the taste of Kentucky bourbon.  To accommodate him, friends imported six cases and even switched from scotch to help him drink it.   When he left England two cases remained. “I will be back very soon,” said he.  “Save them for me.”  Though Twain never returned, the bourbon was left untouched until World War Two when the supply was destroyed during a German bombing raid on London.

Twain’s visits to Klapproth’s can be roughly dated from 1871 when his family first adopted Elmira as their summer home and for the ensuing twenty years.  August Klapproth died in 1875 and was immediately succeeded by his son Charles, who is reputed to have become a close friend of the author.  Charles apparently continued to run the drinking establishment at 162 Lake Street until closed by prohibitionary forces.  He died in 1922.   The Klapproths are buried in adjacent graves in Elmira’s Woodlawn Cemetery, a plot that features a tall monument.  Twain, who died in 1910, also is buried in Woodlawn.

The story does not end there.  When the saloon was being torn down, the paneled wall, fireplace and decorative metal casting were saved and now are the centerpiece of the Mark Twain Archive at the Gannett-Tripp Library of Elmira College.  Shown below, note the similarity to the Old Crow ad above. Perpetuating the story is an Elmira stage production in which local actors representing Twain relatives and friends present monologues.  Among those speaking is “Charles Klapproth.”