Jesse Moore’s Was a Tale of Two Cities

In Charles Dickens famous novel, “A Tale of Two Cities,” the cities were London and Paris.  For Jesse Moore they were Louisville and San Francisco — two towns that were the springboards of a whiskey that became known from coast to coast and carried Moore’s name.

The label chosen apparently was meant to represent Moore himself.  Although I have been unable to find a photo of the distiller, Moore was a Kentucky entrepreneur not a pioneer toting a rifle on the frontier.  His story is told here in a series of dates that take his whiskey-making enterprises from 1838 until after his death.

1838: Jesse Moore (born in 1812) entered the distillery business at the age of 26 when his older brother George J Moore became the owner of the McFifan distillery in Mt. Vernon, Indiana.  George, a banker, took over the facility as a result of a bad debt, but the distillery burned (or been burned) to the ground before he could take possession. Jesse and George together rebuilt and called the plant the Phoenix Distillery. George and his family subsequently returned to Louisville, leaving Jesse in charge.

1848: Jesse sold his stake in the Phoenix and returned to Louisville, where for a time he ran a confectionary, wine and liquor store.

1853: Jesse with a partner bought a small distillery in Lebanon, KY.  Their brands included "Jesse Moore", "Jesse Moore's A.A.", "Kentucky Bedford", "P. Vollmer", and “Swan."  Jesse Moore Whiskey was the flagship brand, as indicated here on two company shot glasses.

1859-1875:  Moore’s company built at least two more distilleries.  Jesse was bottling his production in glass bottles that carried paper labels but were heavily embossed with a pair of antlers as a signature.  The containers ranged in size from quarts to flasks.  As shown here they came in a variety of colors from dark and light amber to green.

1875: Moore sold his stake in a distillery in Marion Co., Kentucky.   In partnership with his nephew George Henry Moore (born in 1835), Jesse built the Belmont, Astor, and Nutwood distilleries in Louisville. The Jesse Moore brand had become extremely popular throughout the West, and the distilleries were essential to supply an ever widening market. Moore’s company became noted nationwide for its giveaway advertising items to saloons and restaurants carrying its brands.  The company eventually  established outlets in a number of cities throughout America, with San Francisco as by far the most important because of its access to the entire West.

1876: Jesse and George Henry took Henry Browne Hunt as their California  partner.  Born in Phillipsburg, Pennsylvania in 1936, Hunt had gone to San Francisco with his uncle when he was 13,  went East to finish his education and returned to California to work for several liquor firms.  Among them was a saloon owner who was the San Francisco agent for Moore’s whiskey but apparently not doing a good job.  The Moores sent a representative West who met Hunt and was impressed by his ability.  With Jesse’s blessing a new partnership was formed and called the Jesse Moore, Hunt Company.  Shown here are a number of artifacts bearing that name.  Under Hunt, the brand was distributed throughout the West and was said to enjoy “phenomenal” sales.

1880's: Max Selliger, a liquor salesman, was taken on by the Moores to help run their distilleries.  George Henry and Selliger later formed a separate liquor company, one listed in Louisville directories from at least 1884.

1890: Thos. Kirkpatrick, an immigrant from England, became manager of the San Francisco office, assisting Hunt.  The company was liberal in bestowing giveaway items such as shot glasses, back-of the bar bottles, and signs to saloons and restaurants

1892: Jesse Moore retired from business and sold his shares in Jesse Moore & Co. to a group of English investors headed by Nathan Hofheimer. Hofheimer had worked for Moore from 1879 to 1884, at which point he left for New York and became established in the international liquor trade.  Moore retired to his Louisville mansion home, shown here, and died in 1898.

1896: George Henry Moore died at the age of 61, the victim of a heart attack.  His widow sold most of his Moore stock to Max Selliger, although Sherley Moore, George Henry’s son, still held shares worth $100,000. The Louisville and San Francisco operations were then consolidated, with Thomas Kirkpatrick as President and Sherley Moore as Vice President of the Jesse Moore, Hunt Co. Inc.

1901-1933: Sherley Moore exited the liquor business, leaving Max Selliger to continue running the company until Prohibition. Upon repeal in 1933, Selliger sold the idled distilleries along with the Jesse Moore brand name to other interests, thus ending almost a full century that this tale of two cities was told.

Note:  This post has made use of the timetable provided by Robin Preston on his Pre-Pro website for the information about Jesse Moore and his whiskey.  Preston does not indicate his source or sources but the information is corroborated by other documents.  I have added other information that seemed important and all the images shown here.  For more information on Max Selliger see my post of May 2017 on his rise to prominence.  That post also provides additional information on George Henry Moore.

Tracking Max Selliger in His Climb to Whiskey Glory

I am no handwriting expert but looking at Max Selliger’s signature above, particularly noting the curlicues on the capital letters, it seems to exude confidence.   He was 30 years old at the time, in the midst of his climb up the Kentucky distilling ladder, beginning as a poorly paid clerk and ending as the sole proprietor of two major Louisville distilleries, maintaining offices in the heart of the city’s “Whiskey Row,” and selling his bourbon coast to coast.

Selliger was born in Louisville in 1852, the son of Caroline and Samuel Selliger. His father ran a millinery store.  Max was provided an elementary and some secondary education in local schools but by the age of 18 was recorded working as a clerk, possibly in his father’s shop.  Given the importance that making and selling whiskey had assumed in Louisville during that era, selling women’s hats may have seemed like a dead end to an ambitious youth like Max.  By 1872 he had gone to work for Barkhouse Bros. & Co., wholesale liquor dealers located at 69 Main Street near Third Road.

The brothers, Julius and Louis Barkhouse, were relative newcomers to the Louisville whiskey scene, but ambitious.  Originally they were wholesalers and “rectifiers” — that is, blending whiskey to achieve smoothness, taste and color.  They must have seen promise in the 20-year-old Selliger and made him their bookkeeper.  It was a post of considerable trust because Max would have been responsible for making the entries on whiskey purchases and rectifications as required by Federal law.  Carelessness or mistakes could result in court action and potential confiscation of stocks and equipment.

By 1876 Barkhouse brothers had determined, as many rectifiers did, that in order to assure whiskey for blending, it was advantageous to own their own distillery.  Accordingly in 1876 they built a plant at 278-300 Story Avenue, near Ohio Street.  They released Selliger from his desk-bound job and green eyeshade to become a salesman for what they now called the Kentucky Distilling Company.  Max made the rounds of Louisville area saloons hawking such brands as “Beargrass,” “Gold Dust” and “Kentucky Pride.”

After three years on this job, Selliger left the Barkhouses to team with Nathan Hofheimer, who came from an established Louisville whiskey clan, including Ernest and Sigmund Hofheimer who owned a wholesale whiskey business on Main Street.  Nathan also was kin to the Cincinnati-based Hofheimer Bros., who owned the White Mills distillery in Louisville.  

The new company, Hofheimer & Selliger, was located at 8 Main Street below First St.  Likely helped by their important connections, from the beginning the partners were successful.  “This wholesale liquor company had exclusive control of many of Kentucky’s finest bourbons,” according to the Encyclopedia of Louisville (2001).  Those brands included “Crystal Springs,”  “G. W. S. Mellwood,” and “Glencoe.”  [For further information on Glencoe, see my post of July 10, 2012.]

Meanwhile another scion of a well-known local whiskey family was fulfilling his ambitions in the liquor trade.  He was George H. Moore, who in 1865 had returned to Louisville from a Union prison camp at Johnson’s Island, Ohio, where he had been interned after being captured in the battle of Allatoona, Georgia.  He went to work in the whiskey operation of his uncle, Jesse Moore.  Beginning in 1881, likely with Jesse’s financial help, George built the Astor Distillery, shown above, located in Louisville between Lexington (later Breckenridge) and Arbegust Streets.  Subsequently Moore built a second plant immediately adjacent, shown below, and called it the Belmont Distillery.

Insurance records show the Astor and Belmont Distilleries adjacent at the site.  Each of the stills was of brick construction as were four shared warehouses with fireproof metal or slate roofs.  Warehouse A, located 40 feet east of the stills was used for Astor storage and Warehouse B, located 45 feet northeast, likely was assigned to Belmont.  Warehouses C and D sat south of the stills.  The Astor made a sweet mash whiskey called “Astor” and the Belmont was producing “Belmont” and “Nutwood,” both sour mash bourbons.

City directories for 1881-1883 indicate that while maintaining their wholesale liquor business, Selliger early on joined George Moore’s distillery company as treasurer and Hofheimer became corporate secretary.  This cozy arrangement proceeded until 1884, when Max left Hofheimer to join Moore full-time in a new firm, one they called Moore and Selliger.  Considered one of the wealthiest men in Louisville and seventeen years older than Selliger, Moore must have seen considerable talent in the younger man to take him as a partner.  With this move Max had made the jump from rectifier — always viewed as second class to actual distillers in Kentucky — to part ownership of two major facilities.

As he was climbing the ladder to whiskey success, Max had remained a bachelor.   Now as a bonafide distiller, in 1882 at the age of 30, he married Nannie Rosenthal, Kentucky-born of German immigrant parents, a woman several years younger than he.  They may have taken a honeymoon abroad because Selliger applied for a passport that same year.  The document provides a description of Max as a young man:  Five feet, eight inches tall; blue eyes;  black hair; long face, and dark complexion.  Over time the couple would have a family of two girls, Leah and Jessie.

Moore & Selliger Co. packaged its whiskeys in clear glass bottles, sized from half-pint and pint flasks to “fifths” and full quarts.  They all carried paper labels.  The Belmont brand displayed a particularly well-designed label involving a large bell and the statement that: “This Whiskey Was Mashed in Little Tubs and Distilled in the Old Fashioned Hand Made Sour Mash Press.”   The partners early saw the benefits of registering their trademarks with the federal government, patenting Astor in 1888, Belmont in 1889 and Nutwood in 1894. .

During the twelve years from 1882 to 1896 the company flourished under the two men.  By the mid -1890s the Astor Distillery was consuming 725 bushels a day to produce sweet-mash whiskey and the Belmont Distillery 760 bushels for sour-mash.  Warehouse capacity had been expanded to 42,000 barrels.  The plants employed a large work staff.  A fire in the Belmont mash room in 1891 that caused $1,000 damage was quickly repaired and whisky-making resumed.

 As he aged, George Moore’s heath deteriorated markedly. After taking breakfast with his family in January 1896 he died quietly, sitting in an armchair. The verdict was a heart attack.  Now the former clerk was running both distilleries as the sole proprietor.  He promptly changed the name to the Max Selliger Company.  In a climb of 26 years at last he had reached the pinnacle of success, recognized as a true Kentucky “whiskey baron.”  For the next 24 years Selliger continued to manage both distilleries, establishing his three major whiskeys as national brands.  After trademark reforms by Congress in 1904, within two years he had registered his Astor, Belmont, and Nutwood brands a second time.

Once in full charge of the whiskey-making Selliger stepped up his merchandising, providing an attractive reverse glass sign and shot glasses to saloons and restaurants using his liquor.   As a result of this intense marketing he developed a wide market for his whiskey as attested by a letterhead from Denver that includes the Belmont logo and by a shot glass from a California saloon. 

Shut down by the advent of National Prohibition in 1920,  Max continued to be listed as a distiller in the federal census of that year.  By the 1930 census, however, he was recorded as “ex-distiller” and “financier.”  In 1933 as Repeal was imminent, Selliger, now 81 years old and with no son to take over the business, sold his idled distilleries and brands to a group that also bought the Bernheim Distilleries.  Eventually, as shown below, Schenley picked up the Belmont name and motif.

In 1936 Max and Nannie Selliger were still listed in Louisville directories, living at 1022 South Third Street.  With them was their unmarried daughter, Jessie.  The Max Selliger company was still extant, now with a hired manager.  As he relaxed in virtual retirement, Max must have thought frequently about the timely career moves he had made, decisions that had seen him rise from clerk to whiskey nobility — and smiled.  In April 1938 while on a visit to Philadelphia, at the age of 86, Selliger was stricken with a heart attack and died.  His body was returned to Louisville for interment, with Nannie, Jessie and a granddaughter among the mourners.

Note: In February of this year three unopened “fifth” bottles of Selliger’s Belmont whiskey were sold at auction.  The label identified all three as having been distilled in 1902 and aged for eight years at the Louisville facility.  Although a small part of the contents had evaporated from each bottle, as shown right, most of the whiskey still remained and would be considered potable.  The three bottles were knocked down at prices ranging from $1,230 to $1,476 — each sip an expensive one.  Max Selliger would be proud.

Andrew Pfirrmann: Whiskey and Hot Water

Andrew Pfirrmann came to America as a youth, had a successful career in the liquor trade, was mourned by colleagues upon his death, but apparently could not help getting into “hot water” with his whiskey business. In one instance he became the center of an international incident involving top officials of the U.S. Government.

Pfirrmann was born in Rhenish Bavaria in 1826 of parents who reputedly saw that he was given a good primary and secondary education. At age 17 he emigrated to the U.S., landing in New York City and working there a clerk and salesman, possibly in the liquor trade. Pfirrmann arrived in Cincinnati in December 1847 during the Ohio River flood of that month, shown top right in a contemporary drawing. It would not be the last time Andrew would land in deep water.

In Cincinnati Pfirrmann found a place he would call home for the rest of his life. He married an Ohio-born woman whose name was Bertha. The 1880 U.S. Census found them living together in Cincinnati with a very young son named Irwin. By this time Pfirrmann was well established in the liquor business.  A company bearing his name first appeared in Cincinnati directories in 1866, located at 359 Walnut St. In 1870 he joined with a fellow German immigrant named Jacob Pfau Jr. to create the firm of Pfirrmann & Pfau, located on Vine St. The whiskey traders flourished, according to contemporary accounts, often logging sales of $50,000 a month, the equivalent of hundreds of thousands today.

When Pfau became ill during the early 1880s and ultimately died in 1883, Pfirrmann purchased his share of the business and ran it by himself. At the same time he was serving as president (1876-1883) of the German National Bank of Cincinnati and looking after extensive real estate interests. Those demands on his time were accounted the reasons for his subsequent business reversals. His liquor business experienced a cash shortage that led to bankruptcy. The event rocked the local business community and made national news. A New York Times headline of March 15, 1883, read: “Failure of Whiskey Dealers; Suspension of Pfirrmann & Pfau, of Cincinnati.”

The company had debts of $425,000 and no ready money to pay its creditors, but did count $960,000 in assets, the value of 30,000 barrels of whiskey, most of it held in bond in warehouses. The Times opined: “It is not thought that anybody will be much hurt.” Pfirrmann weathered that setback, came through bankruptcy and took a new partner, a Cincinnati local named George Herzog.

During ensuing years, the business, reorganized as A. Pfirrmann & Co., was accorded by contemporaries as “one of the leading wholesale liquor firms of this city.” The German immigrant was also becoming a well-known Cincinnati community leader. He was a charter member of the Hanselman Lodge of Masons and an active participant in the Chamber of Commerce.

About 1885 together Pfirrmann and Herzog started a second wholesale liquor firm with business offices in the Pike Building in downtown Cincinnati. They called it the American Export and Warehouse Company. Their flagship brand was "Export Whiskey," as advertised on the plate shown here. A popular idea at the time was that whiskey sloshing around in barrels on the high seas was mellowed and aged in beneficial ways that sedentary storing in warehouses failed to do. A number of American distillers regularly sent their whiskey to Jamaica and other islands of the Caribbean or even further abroad.

In 1883 Pfirrmann and his partner reputedly launched 313 barrels of whiskey on the high seas. The liquor shipped aboard the American schooner Warren B. Potter, the U.S. brigantine Payson Tucker, and the Norwegian bark Frej -- all bound for Bermuda. The barrels were offloaded there and stored in warehouses owned by a British citizen.

About 1890 American Export sold its Bermuda-based liquor to Nathan Hofheimer, a nationally known speculator in whiskey. When Hofheimer returned the whiskey to the U.S. and sampled it, he concluded it had been watered and he had been defrauded of a substantial amount of money. A barrel of whiskey holds 40 gallons. American Export’s 313 barrels equaled 12,520 gallons, more than 50,000 quarts of liquor. At an average sale price of $1.25 per quart for aged whiskey, the shipment was worth about $1.25 million in today’s dollar.

While the barrels had been stored in Bermuda, Hofheimer alleged in a lawsuit against American Export, the whiskey had been doctored and manipulated. His case rested on obtaining copies of correspondence sent from Cincinnati by Pfirrmann and others to the warehouse owner. Hofheimer believed the letters contained proof that the Bermuda resident had been directed to adulterate the liquor while in his possession.

The problem was that the letters resided in a British colony. The attempt to obtain them had to come from the top of the U.S. Government. The Attorney General at the time, William H. H. Miller, shown left, took up the case for Hofheimer. The then Secretary of State, John W. Foster, the following photo, personally attested to Miller’s signature on diplomatic documents addressed to the British Governor General of Bermuda, requesting the letters that claiming they potentially could incriminate Pfirrmann and others.

Details of the case are recorded in the 1894 edition of American Admiralty and Its Jurisprudence. Nowhere, however, does the journal describe the outcome of Hofheimer’s case. There is no evidence that the letters were ever turned over. The lawsuit went nowhere without them. As indicated in a later photograph, Bermuda continued for years to be a favorite offloading spot for illicit whiskey.

The American Export and Warehouse Co. disappeared from Cincinnati directories in 1888. In the early 1890s other liquor firms with which Pfirrmann had been associated vanished from view. That may have been the result of the his death on April 12, 1892, at his residence. Pfirrmann was 66 years old. No cause of death was given.

Was Andrew Pfirrmann a scoundrel who cheated creditors and customers? A Chamber of Commerce obituary seems to paint a different picture. Signed by colleagues, including others in the liquor business, the memorial states in part: “He loved his adopted country and by word and deed always strove for good government.” Perhaps meaningfully, however, the obituary makes no mention at all of Pfirrmann’s business practices.